Since I was a mechanic for many years, of course I have replaced a lot of both drum and disc brakes, but only rarely either drums or rotors.
Unless the front rotors have a lot of damage, either do nothing to them or have them turned to resurface them. Repack the wheel bearings if you take them off of the spindles and make sure you know how to do that properly if you do it at all. Just smearing grease around will not cut it.
If you have to separate the rotors from the hubs to replace the rotors, you will need to have the rotors turned anyhow. Often, people used to replace rotors without having them turned and the brake pedal would jump up and down as much as an inch!
Unlikely you would need new drums unless the lining on your brake shoes on the rear have worn through to the steel backing, but again, unless things have changed, if you replace the drums you may need to have them turned before installing them, and on drum brakes, make DANG SURE you either overhaul or replace the wheel cylinders. New brake shoes on drum brakes have about a 30% chance of starting the wheel cylinders to leaking because the pistons and rubber seals will be pushed back in the hole to a position they have not run in for years and the seals will be running in crud.
Also, if you have the rear drums turned, new brake shoes will feel "springy" and soft for a while, since the new shoes are shaped in a tighter radius then the drum they are now running in. The middle of the shoe will hit the drum first and as you push harder on the brake the shoe will bend until it is touching all of the way around. NOT a very solid feeling brake pedal until the shoe wears to fit the drum.
We used to have a machine called a "brake doctor" that would grind the new shoes to fit the new drum size after turning, but it filled the air in the shop with asbestos grinding dust, so no more brake doctors as far as I know.
Long story short, unless you have special damage in there somewhere, at 110K, I would just pull the calipers on the front, grease up the slides the calipers run on, check for surface damage on the rotor and if none is found, stick it back together with new pads and call it good.
I would prob'ly leave the rear alone unless I began hearing it complain...and then look into it RIGHT AWAY before the steel backing on the shoes does damage to the drums. Most vehicles finish their lives with the same drums and rotors installed at the factory.....Joe