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Post by Jolly on Feb 27, 2022 15:00:41 GMT
I need to build a shed. Not too big, just 10x12 or maybe a hair bigger. I've been pondering some different foundation options, trying not to spend more money than I have to. I've looked at deck blocks, concrete blocks, treated skids, etc. While looking, I ran across something that wouldn't work for me, but it was a neat idea.
On a layer of leveled sand or crushed stone, a timberframe perimeter is laid down. Then a floor of patio brick pavers or walkway blocks are laid down, making the floor of your shed.
In some cases, that would make for a very interesting shed floor. And since you have no floor joists or 3/4" plywood, a cheaper floor.
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Post by Ozarks Tom on Feb 27, 2022 16:06:46 GMT
When I built our hay barn, 10x 24, once the walls were up I just laid landscape timbers about 4' apart running front to back, then loose laid treated 2x8s across them. Might not be pretty, but hey, it's a hay barn that'll hold 100 square bales.
I like the idea of pavers for a more of a utility shed.
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Post by Jolly on Feb 27, 2022 17:40:33 GMT
Something a guy in down here did for his home, that I hadn't seen...His home was built like a pole barn, using used oilfield pipe. After the pipes for the walls were up, he bolted a treated 2x6 all around the outside pipes. He then came back, put wire and rebar in the inside and poured concrete.
Interesting way to do it...
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Post by Ozarks Tom on Feb 28, 2022 2:24:11 GMT
Something a guy in down here did for his home, that I hadn't seen...His home was built like a pole barn, using used oilfield pipe. After the pipes for the walls were up, he bolted a treated 2x6 all around the outside pipes. He then came back, put wire and rebar in the inside and poured concrete. Interesting way to do it...
Sounds like he's ready for the next hurricane.
Some folks have looked at my pole barns and asked why I build them like I do, hurrican straps on all the trusses, angle bracing on the corners, 2x6's where most people would use 2x4's and I just say I only want to build them once.
We're on a hill, and the original part of the house has been here since 1908. Hedging our bet against eventuality of a really, really big wind we put in a big storm shelter a few years ago. I'd guess the house would blow away before those outbuildings would.
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Post by themotherhen on Feb 28, 2022 6:39:09 GMT
Ozarks Tom, the point that you made regarding the outbuildings outlasting the house is very practical, I think. Much easier for you and your wife to stay with friends or in an outbuilding than to try to house chickens, ducks, sheep, etc, in the house!!!
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Post by farmrbrown on Feb 28, 2022 23:47:46 GMT
Something a guy in down here did for his home, that I hadn't seen...His home was built like a pole barn, using used oilfield pipe. After the pipes for the walls were up, he bolted a treated 2x6 all around the outside pipes. He then came back, put wire and rebar in the inside and poured concrete. Interesting way to do it... That's how I plan on doing my 20' x 40' shop out back. Grade it all first, then set the 4x4 posts in footers around the perimeter. Since I need a gravel base under a poured slab anyway, I'll use that for my "floor" until I get around to finishing it. Meanwhile I can start at the back and pour it in sections with an expansion joint between sections. Another advantage is with a roof overhead I'm not at the mercy of the weather on the days I want to do the concrete. You have to be creative and inventive when you're doing bigger projects solo.
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Post by joebill on Feb 8, 2023 15:44:19 GMT
farmrbrown, if you happen to be situated near a limestone quarry, you might consider some of their products instead of the gravel for your base. We had "oversize" for solidifying the mud before applying "road pack", which is the base used on most asphalt roads where it is available, a mix of all sizes that stiffens up very nicely, and then my shop at the quarry was finished with "ag lime" which is just limestone powder, and dragged out smooth with the gottom of a loader bucket being pulled backwards.......smooth enough you can sweep it and rool a floor jack around on it. your local quarry machine shop prob'ly has a similar floor you can look at. It ain't concrete, but I only had to get the loader man to put a bucket of fresh ag lime on the dips a couple of times per year and drag it out smooth.....and it is CHEEEEEP!.....apply wet......Joe
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Post by joebill on Feb 8, 2023 15:52:46 GMT
Also, for a cheap shed floor, check the price of cold mix asphalt directly from the batch plant. Shovel it in, rake it out smooth, run a landscape roller over it or pack it otherwise. It will hold up OK for foot traffic, keep out the mud, gets smoother looking every time you sweep it because the fine dust fills up the grain in the asphalt. I worked in a shop with that kind of floor for about a year, and it was OK, except once I was beating on a chunk of steel in a vice and managed to drive the leg on the work bench down into the asphalt floor ....Joe On edit......when checking prices, a ton is more or less about a yard, as I recall......Joe
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Post by fordy on Feb 9, 2023 3:51:21 GMT
Something a guy in down here did for his home, that I hadn't seen...His home was built like a pole barn, using used oilfield pipe. After the pipes for the walls were up, he bolted a treated 2x6 all around the outside pipes. He then came back, put wire and rebar in the inside and poured concrete. Interesting way to do it... ................I helped a friend build a workshop . I showed him how to use old oilfield pipe where a piece of 2.5" would telescope inside of a piece of 3" ! We cemented 5 foot long joints of 3" ~ 4 feet deep . Then , we welded 3"x3" angle iron on top of 6 , 12 foot joints of 2.5" for his uprights . Once we had all up right posts level we simply tack welded the 3 inch to the 2.5 inch. ................We then attached and seated his purlins to the angle iron and welded in place ! Everything progressed from this basic structure . Once he checked all his 'levels' he finished welding the 2.5 inch to the 3 inch . , fordy
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