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Post by Jolly on Mar 20, 2022 15:08:32 GMT
I admit it, I've used drywall screws a lot over the years for different small projects around the homestead. Maybe I was wrong?
Or was I right?
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Post by blackfeather on Mar 20, 2022 16:57:08 GMT
So I learned to drill pilot holes and keep using all those drywall screw I have laying around.  |
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Post by Jolly on Mar 20, 2022 17:11:08 GMT
That, and deck screws are very good for the money.
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Post by Ozarks Tom on Mar 20, 2022 22:56:35 GMT
I rarely used 1 1/4" screws, as I'm usually working with 2x4s and bigger which require 3" screws. I pre-drill a hole the same size as the screw diameter in the board I'm attaching, but no pilot hole in the other. Now, I'm talking #2 pine here, not maple which requires a whole different approach.
He talks about the splitting the "drywall" screws created, then later mentions pre-drilling with a countersink bit. In pine there's no need, in hardwoods yes, but then, who uses ugly black screws in furniture grade wood?
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Post by farmrbrown on Mar 20, 2022 23:10:16 GMT
Jolly, I use plain old drywall screws all the time 1 5/8 - 2". They are coarse thread which holds better and no special bit needed, just a Phillips bit. If I do need a specialty screw of some kind I'll go buy and use it, but for general purpose stuff drywall screws work great. Take it from a guy who is always screwing around. 
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Post by paisley2 on Mar 21, 2022 4:25:41 GMT
Funny!!!!....baiting with a teaser title
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Post by Ozarks Tom on Mar 21, 2022 17:51:54 GMT
I should add, nearly everything I put together, pole barns/sheds/etc all my fasteners are against shear pressure, not pull pressure. Under those circumstances even the cheapest screws will suffice.
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Post by Jolly on Mar 21, 2022 21:56:44 GMT
Funny!!!!....baiting with a teaser title Madam! Pure as the driven snow, we are. |
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Post by joebill on Mar 22, 2022 2:32:48 GMT
Drywall screws are mostly of superior material (higher carbon steel) than plain old wood screws, but once in a while it can get you in trouble. Likewise the screwdriver drill motor attachments.
When either the screws or the driver get an inferior temper step in the heat treating process, just as the screw tightens up in the hole when the head sits down tight, that BUMP will take off the screw head OR take the tip off of the screwdriver.
Defective screws as well as defective drivers seem to come in batches, so you wind up at home on the weekend thinking you had enough of both for the entire project but find out you have a lot of scrap instead.
I designed and manufactured a line of wooden pliers for handling jewelry parts and other soft metals while buffing the parts to avoid damage, and the joints were re enforced with screws to avoid splitting. The drywall screws did OK for the most part, but a failure meant scrapping out about $8 in finished work, and the guy who bought the business from me began using those square drive screws instead of drywall ones.
He swore that after making hundreds of thousands of those joints he still had not experienced a single failure of either material or skill resulting in a failed part, and cost increases were minimal, so if I started making them again, I guess I would likely go that direction.
My general use screws are the deck screws, and where applicable I generally try to apply a splotch of wood glue between the wood layers. Cheap, easy, effectiveness unknown, but prob'ly pretty dang good....Joe
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Post by joebill on Mar 22, 2022 2:35:22 GMT
Drywall screws are mostly of superior material (higher carbon steel) than plain old wood screws, but once in a while it can get you in trouble. Likewise the screwdriver drill motor attachments.
When either the screws or the driver get an inferior temper step in the heat treating process, just as the screw tightens up in the hole when the head sits down tight, that BUMP will take off the screw head OR take the tip off of the screwdriver.
Defective screws as well as defective drivers seem to come in batches, so you wind up at home on the weekend thinking you had enough of both for the entire project but find out you have a lot of scrap instead.
I designed and manufactured a line of wooden pliers for handling jewelry parts and other soft metals while buffing the parts to avoid damage, and the joints were re enforced with screws to avoid splitting. The drywall screws did OK for the most part, but a failure meant scrapping out about $8 in finished work, and the guy who bought the business from me began using those square drive screws instead of drywall ones.
He swore that after making hundreds of thousands of those joints he still had not experienced a single failure of either material or skill resulting in a failed part, and cost increases were minimal, so if I started making them again, I guess I would likely go that direction.
My general use screws are the deck screws, and where applicable I generally try to apply a splotch of wood glue between the wood layers. Cheap, easy, effectiveness unknown, but prob'ly pretty dang good....Joe
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